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My brother dropping in at Waimea!
Old 02-06-2012, 05:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by hank View Post
So what was the downside of all this?
No real downside. All great experiences.
I got out surfing about dozen times at most this last year, and each and every time was a positive experience, and brought me happiness, adrenaline, and peace of mind. It's the missing everything else, letting people down, and missing work to chase swell every week that started to eat at me. It is just sooo disappointing to sacrifice so much time and energy, to show up most of the time and see no good surf. I'd come home so pissed if it wasn't epic. Kinda made me angry, often. My good friend gave me a nick name "the mad surfer".
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:23 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by dustyyoungblood View Post
No real downside. All great experiences.
I got out surfing about dozen times at most this last year, and each and every time was a positive experience, and brought me happiness, adrenaline, and peace of mind. It's the missing everything else, letting people down, and missing work to chase swell every week that started to eat at me. It is just sooo disappointing to sacrifice so much time and energy, to show up most of the time and see no good surf. I'd come home so pissed if it wasn't epic. Kinda made me angry, often. My good friend gave me a nick name "the mad surfer".
I remember days like that. "might as well get drunk".....
It can get that way spearfishing if I'm not careful. I get used to seeing big schools of snapper and if I don't, it's a bad day? Not at all. Just being in the water is awesome and I have to remember that. Plus, you just never know what might show up out on the barrier reef.
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